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| Bienveniedos Amigos!! |
Arrival at Big Bend National Park was early afternoon. I registered and paid for site #17, walked out the door, and look who was standing there to welcome me! Senor Roadrunner at your servico!
It is already appearent that Big Bend is...well, BIG. It takes us forty minutes to drive to Rio Grande Village camping once we pass through the park gate. It is also HOT here....as in the high 90's during the day beginning about 10 a.m. and lasting until sunset, which doesn't occur here until 8:30 p.m.! So strange to have the long evening light, and equally stange to have it be dark until 07:30!
With this heat, we know we have to get a site with electricity, so the concession campground it is. The nearby no services campground, run by the NP, was lovely and much more attractive. However, in national parks dogs are not welcome on trails or just about anywhere except your campsite or car. If we are to do any exploring or ranger lectures, we need an air cooled place for the pups.
Even being in a more populated area, the roadrunner was a daily visitor as were javelinas and more birds than you can imagine! (especially vermillion flycatchers)
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| Javelinas! |
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| Photo guy Steve |
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Mr. Great Blue |
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Senor tortuga
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The birdwatching is fabulous. We see black hawks who have returned to nest, vermillion flycatchers, ash throated flycatchers, vultures, red tailed hawks, rock doves, inca doves, morning doves, belted kingfisher, ladder backed woodpecker, ravens, jays and grackles, sparrows, comorant and great blue heron. The air is alive with their songs, squaks and calls!
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| Rio Rio Grande |
The wildlife is wonderful, but the history of the area is fascinating. Right across the river, so near and yet so far, is the tiny Mexican town of Boquillas, Mexico. We stand in the small area known as Rio Grande Village, that used to be named Boquillas, Texas. Soon after 9-11, this border area was shut down to casual crossing and then to all crossings. Now the people over in Boquillas have no access to supplies and mail they once got in Rio Grande. They are over 200 overland, rough miles from any town in Mexico. It's a big deal for them.
Today you can look across the river and know it would take all of two minutes (if) to wade across to either side. The people of Boquillas have figured out how to still eek out a little tourist economy, by "selling" (or asking for donations) little trinkets and hand crafted items, they leave on the trails or at the overlook sites.
The signs on the U.S. side warn it is ILLEGAL to purchase any such items!
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| So near and yet so far.... |
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| You know you want to "buy" some... |
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| How can you "obtain" illegal goods when told NOT to? |
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| Maybe I bought the occotillo and roadrunner in the NP company store? |
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| Or MAYBE I donated money into the jar here? |
I swear, more than half the fun is looking around, then stuffing your money in the jar and hiding the illegal goods in your backpack. But then again, how would I know?
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| Ranger Amy gives a talk on Boquillas |
Ranger Amy was hired by the NP Service to run the newly reopened border crossing for Rio Grande Village and Boquillas, Mex. The gate is built. The entry building is built. The "arrangements" have been made....it was supposed to open over a year ago, and most recently in January of 2013, when Amy arrived. Then the opening date was February. She is still giving talks, but not working at an open border crossing!
On the rock next to where she is talking is another, very obvious, site for aquiring illegal crafts. Across the river Mexicans wave at us. They sit on the river edge making their wares. Soon they will wade across, empty the jar, and put new items on the "shelf." (usually not while she is talking!)
We spend the very hot afternoon in the air conditioned Jeep driving the Chicos Mt. trail, the Maverick Road and the Ross Maxwell Scenic Road to Santa Elena Canyon. The thermometer reads 103 degrees! Too hot to even get out and walk a little bit.
We decide it's time to leave Big Bend. Not because we have nothing left to see or do, but because it is just too hot to manage dogs....and truthfully...Nan!
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| Chicsos Mt. Road |
From mountains, to canyons, to the river...to the massive and ever present desert....Big Bend is, well, BIG! And did I mention: AWESOME?!
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| Prickley Pear beauty |
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| Oh, OH, Occotillo! |
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| Santa Elena Canyon - one canyon wall is Mexico, the other in U.S. |
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| Good evening, Big Bend |
On to San Antionio we go....
